The Story behind Cufflinks by W. Golena

After more than thirty years of apparent exile to the back of the sock drawer, cuff links are back in fashion! With the return of vintage style and a resurgence of interest in tailored suits, money clips and old fashioned, timepieces, cuff links have become the way to express oneself.

Cufflinks were created as a Renaissance fashion piece. They first gained popularity in the late 1600s when the lace trims decorating men’s sleeves were replaced by ribbons used to keep cuffs fastened. Jeweled buttons-called sleeve buttons- soon took their place thus serving as the first “cuff links”. In the Georgian era, of the 1700s, glass became a popular material for jewelry and was sometimes worn in sterling and gold with diamonds.

More elaborate cuff links were created with painted figures on the underside of glass or quartz with twisted wire. During the Industrial Revolution in the 1860s, the development of precious metal electroplating allowed the middle class and tradesman to enjoy a look that was formerly only enjoyed by the aristocracy. In the 1880s, George Krementz patented a machine adapted from a civil war cartridge shell that manufactured one-piece collar buttons and cuff links. During the first half of the twentieth century, almost every major U.S. business company commissioned cuff links either for advertising purposes or as gift incentives for employees or executives.
 

The popularity of cuff links has further increased because they are now appreciated as a collectible. Pieces from the late 1880s through the late 1930s, covering the Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco, Arts and Crafts, and Modern Periods, are highly sought. During the war years, interest waned until postwar technology and travel opened the world market again. One of the most expensive pairs of cuff links, sold at auction for $440,000 in the year 1987 and was a gift from Wallis Simpson to Edward, the soon-to-be- King of England. The platinum cuff links were set with diamond baguettes forming the letters E and W. More recent newsworthy cufflinks would be the “infamous” set presented to the heir apparent, Prince Charles. These scandalous interlocking “Cs” were a gift to him upon his wedding to Diana from his now wife Camilla Parker Bowles. Cuff links run the gamut from small and discreet to oversized and outrageous. They can be trendy or traditional and are often used to express the wearer’s success with designs such as dollar signs and money bags. They can illustrate ones social, religious and political affiliation or ones personal indulgences. Playing cards, dice and spirit bottles are popular themes. Diminutive versions of carpenter tools, typewriter keys, stamps and coins hint at one’s hobbies as do football helmets, yachts, horses and team insignias. There are even cuff links that perform tasks like compasses, watches, music boxes and roulette wheels.

In short, with cigar smoking, wine tasting and Martinis back in vogue, the wrist has become highly visible again. What better way to showcase your interests and personality than with these mini art forms, they are affordable, available, make good personal gifts; they’re functional, and can be stored or displayed in a small space.
 

Written and published with permission of Mrs. W. Golena